The Commercial Appeal
By: Jennifer Biggs
Stoney River Steakhouse opened Monday in the Shops of Saddle Creek, and I was there this weekend for a preview dinner.
First, it’s a nice-looking place, comfortable and upscale-ish but not super clubby or fancy. You enter at the bar, which is large, round and has barstools at ledges around the windows, a touch I like.
The food was very good, and while I ordered last to allow my dinner companions to choose what they wanted (you typically order an item per category at these preview dinners), I think I might have won with, of all things, the meatloaf. It was a huge portion, far too much to eat after a shared appetizer and a big salad, but fabulous. The meatloaf was tender and chockfull of wild mushrooms, covered with a Madeira portobello gravy and served with mashed potatoes and green beans. We all started with salad; my wedge is above. Oh, we also split Whiskey River shrimp (below) for an appetizer.
Sea bass was steamed (this is a huge piece of fish, which doesn’t show so much in the photo), served on spinach in a pool of sesame soy sauce; also excellent.
The filet trio came topped with 1) a great Bearnaise, 2) blue cheese, 3) and horseradish-encrusted. Like the strip, which was again, very, very good, it came with choice of a side, and both folks getting steaks ordered the potatoes au gratin, which were crazy decadent.
We split creme brulee for dessert, probably my favorite dessert of all time. This was — guess what? — great. Perfect temp for me — slightly chilled but not cold.
The dinner was complimentary, and I wasn’t handed the check at the end (a tip envelope was provided, and all tips went to St. Jude), but all that, with two cocktails and eight glasses of wine (four of us) came to about $250.
I think you’ll like it; let me know after you give it a try.
Stoney River is at 7515 Poplar; 901-207-1100. Hours are 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday, and Sunday brunch is 11 a.m.-4 p.m.